Preparing to Show Your Dog in Novice Obedience:
From Fun Match to Obedience Trial
 

American Kennel Club ~ www.AKC.org

5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 200, Raleigh, NC  27606-3390

(919) 233-9767

AKC Gazette (official magazine of the AKC) ~ (same website as AKC)

260 Madison Avenue, New York, NY  10016

Canadian Kennel Club ~ www.ckc.ca

89 Skyway Avenue, Suite 100, Etobicoke, Ontario  M9W 6R4, Canada

(416) 675-5511

Dogs in Canada (official magazine of CKC) ~  www.dogsincanada.com   (same address & phone as CKC)

United Kennel Club ~ www.ukcdogs.com

100 E. Kilgore Road, Kalamazoo, MI  49002-5584

(616) 343-9020

Bloodlines (official magazine of UKC) ~ Same address & phone as UKC

 Prior to entering official events you’ll need to register your dog with the above organizations, a process which can take several weeks, so be sure to plan in advance.   You’ll also need to obtain each organization’s Obedience Regulations, Guidelines for Obedience Judges and Rules Applying to Dog Shows so you can prepare for the exercises and other requirements unique to each registry.    Some of these documents can be downloaded from the internet; others must be ordered and sent via mail.   

Practice Events –

(Ten-Minute Tickers, Run-Throughs, Fun Matches, Show ‘n Go’s, Sanctioned Matches)

Newcomers often find it difficult to get advance notice of practice events.   Watch for flyers in the training center and subscribe to the Northwest’s calendar of canine events:   The Eventer, published by Kay Doolittle.   You can subscribe to this monthly newspaper by writing Doo Publications, P. O. Box 1601, Duvall, WA  98019 or via email at 2824doopub@gte.net or telephone at (425) 788-4200.  (Yearly cost as of July 2000 was $20 for 11 issues.)

The Real Deal – AKC, CKC & UKC Show Superintendent Mailing Lists

There is no charge to receive premium lists & entry forms from the area’s superintendents.   However, if you do not enter their events at least once a year your name will be dropped from their mailing list and you’ll need to contact them again.   Simply send a letter requesting that you be added to their mailing list for all-breed dog shows and obedience trials in the states and/or provinces you’re willing to travel to, and tell them what breed of dog you have, so they can also send you breed-specific events.

Brown Dog Shows, P. O. Box 2566, Spokane, WA  99220-2566 ~ www.browndogshow.com

R & R Dog Shows, PMB 387, 11012 Canyon Road East, Suite 8, Puyallup, WA  98373 ~ www.randrdogshows.com

Ace Mathews, P. O. Box 13506, Portland, OR 97213-0506 ~ www.acemathewsdogshows.com

Jack Onofrio, P. O. Box 4660, Portland, OR 97208-4660 ~ www.onofrio.com

Lorraine Russell, P. O. Box 607, Auburn, WA  98071-0607

Classic Show Services, P. O. Box 1612, Aldergrove, BC V4W 2V1

Select Show Services, Box 61504, Brookswood P.O., Langley, BC  V3A 8C8

Western Dog Shows, P. O. Box 3070, MPP, Kamloops, BC  V2C 6B7

The Language – What Do All Those Words & Abbreviations Mean?

Like any sport, this one has its own unique language.   Here’s a brief glossary to help you through the lingo:

Additional Reference & Reading Materials

 There are some great books on handling in the obedience ring.   Two great dog book resources are Dogwise 1-800-776-2665, www.dogwise.com; and 4M Dog Books 1-800-487-9867, www.4mdogbooks.com.    Available at no charge, thanks to the FDTC website and author and AKC Judge, John Cox, are dozens of informative articles on handling and scoring in the AKC obedience ring:   www.familydogonline.com    Kathy Lang also has an ever-increasing selection of articles that she has written on the FDTC website, as well.

Your Checklist of “Stuff” for the Dog Show (& Practice Event)

The following is just a list to get you started.  Add your own needs & desires!

I couldn’t imagine going to a dog show or practice event without a crate for my dog.  The crate is his safe haven for relaxing when not in the ring.   (It’s very tiring for dogs to be “out” all day, being walked around, petted, talked to, etc.)   I don’t have to worry about some child startling my dog, someone trying to feed my dog something they shouldn’t, another dog sniffing or going after my dog, etc., etc., etc.   A crate allows me to run to the bathroom, do a little shopping, relax and eat my lunch.   

If your dog won’t nap in his crate, cover it with a lightweight tarp, sheet or special crate cover.   This same cover is great for hiding your equipment if you leave it in your crate overnight when back-to-back shows are held at the same location.   (Hint:  Luggage locks are theft deterrents.   I, personally, have never had a problem leaving stuff at shows overnight, but I don’t leave video cameras or expensive stuff.)

Reflective tarps (available from REI and other outdoor stores as well as dog show vendors) are another must-have for dog shows.   The silver reflective side of the tarp can help keep a dog cool in his crate, and they’re great for hanging from canopies to block sun, rain and/or wind.

Clothing

Comfortable, supportive shoes are one of the best investments you can make to help your performance.   Be sure they have rubber soles and good lateral support, and they provide good traction.   (Some shoes are great for indoors but lousy outside in wet grass.   Test them out in advance!)     Many handlers dress up for obedience trials, wearing slacks or pants that are color-coordinated with their dog (so minor mistakes are less noticeable) and a complementary blouse or shirt and vest.   Wear whatever makes you comfortable, as long as it’s clean and neat.   Dog shows are special events for you as well as your dog, so dress accordingly!   

Take the Time to Keep a Match Book

A match book is simply a section of your training diary or other notebook in which you can keep notes about the practice events (and later shows) that you attend.    Record the various types of conditions and distractions that you encountered and how you and your dog did.  I like to make notes about the location (indoors or outdoors), weather, type of ring barriers (baby gates, ring ropes, etc.), the club’s name, the judge’s name, time that I arrived, time that I showed, how much time I spent warming up, what my warm-up consisted of, my dog’s attitude & attention outside the ring and then inside the ring, etc.   You may find it useful to make specific notes about each exercise (problems, surprises, etc.), training aids that were used, amount of extra food and/or talking used and how the dog did on each exercise, plus his overall performance.   Was he distracted or attentive?  High energy or sluggish?  Shy or social? 

Make the last entry for each training session or event be reminders:   things to work on and/or be aware of the next time you train or exhibit.   (A sample form for recording this information is included at the end of this article.)

Attention!    Attention!    Attention!    Hey You! I said, “ATTENTION!”

Whenever your dog is out with you at an event, consider your dog’s welfare.   Talking to friends, eating lunch, going shopping and to the restroom all come second, AFTER the dog has been accommodated.   Keep your eye on your dog at all times when he’s out of his crate, whether you’re sitting in your chair or walking to the car.  You never know when a loose dog or child might run up suddenly and surprise him, and you certainly don’t want your dog pulling you into another person’s dog! 

If you use obedience commands in casual settings, make sure you hold your dog to the same high standards to which you hold him in the ring.  Never put your dog on a sit stay while chatting with a friend and allow the dog to sniff or lie down; if you allow those behaviors outside the ring, expect them inside the ring, too!

Attention is a two-way street.  I get back from my dog what I give my dog.   If my dog is in his crate, very little of my attention is on my dog.   I am simply aware of him and how he’s doing.  Once my dog comes out of his crate at the event, all of my attention turns to my dog.   I am aware of his every move, even though he’s not on any obedience command.  I want to observe his mood, his energy level, his desire to work, etc.  Even when I’m talking to friends, I am still very aware of my dog.

When I get ready to “work” my dog, my focus turns 100% to us as a team.   I begin by focusing myself, reminding myself of our goals for the day, how I want to interact with my dog in the ring, the type of warm-up I plan to do, how I should give my signal or execute my about turn.   If I don’t give 100% effort, how can I expect my dog to?   Then I start the routine that I’ve developed to wake my dog up and let him know it’s time to go to work, that he needs to pay attention and focus on the job at hand.    This routine is not something that just happens, it’s a series of events that I use to help my dog and I become a team.   It includes a little walk, a little play, a little heeling, a front or two, etc.   I have different routines depending upon the circumstances.   If my dog is a little sluggish, I do this.  If my dog is too “up” I do that.  If my dog is particularly distracted, I do this.  Routines are fine-tuned at those ever-valuable practice events, and they will change over time as your experience and exposure grows.  

When my dog and I are “working” together, my attention is totally devoted to my dog, and I expect the same from him in return.   When I need to stop and think about something, or I want to chat with a friend or tie my shoe, I release my dog from “working” with a command and change in body language.   Why should I take a break without giving my partner a break, too?   Of course, when it’s time to work again, I make sure we both finish our coffee breaks at the same time!

One of the skills you and your dog need to develop is the ability to “turn it on and turn it off.”   “It” can be described as the focus, intensity, attention, energy and concentration needed to perform as the best team you can be.   The best dog and handler teams are the ones with this ability.   When they’re relaxing, they’re both relaxing.  When they’re working, they’re both working…and they’re both giving it 100%.   This ability is not inborn; it is something to develop.   And the best place to work on it is at practice events.

Train yourself to block out the distractions, especially right before entering the ring.  Once in the ring, block out everything except yourself, your dog and the judge.   Think of the judge, the ring stewards, the equipment and the audience as “props” for a performance that you have carefully rehearsed.   The teamwork and interaction between you and your canine partner predominate the scene; everything and everyone else is in the background.   Athletes call this getting into the “zone.”  It’s the same for us dog exhibitors!

Confidence is equated with control.  Once you realize YOU are in control of your dog, yourself and the ring, you will gain confidence.   You won’t gain confidence by reading about obedience trials; confidence comes from getting out there and doing it, going to the practice events and getting your feet wet one little toe at a time!    As the Nike slogan goes, JUST DO IT!

One way to take control is to set the pace in the ring.   Take your time setting your dog up, adjusting your leash, answering the judge, etc.  When you hear the judge’s order to do something, take a breath and then command your dog.   Never let the judge rush you; you paid your money and you bought your time in his ring!  

If you find yourself getting nervous at the very thought of entering a ring, read books, listen to audiotapes and do exercises on positive thinking, visualization, calming signals, deep breathing, etc.   FDTC publishes a Recommended Reading list for training and showing using psycho-cybernetics.    One of the best exercises is to act “As if…”   Act as if you were confident.   Act as if you were in control of this obedience ring.  Act as if you were Kathy Lang or    you fill in the blank    in this situation.   (This technique really does work!)  

The Five Levels of Practice Events

Practice Events:  The Transition from Training in Class to Earning a Title

In a perfect world, I would love to see handlers exhibit their dogs 100 or more times at various practice events before entering a “real” obedience trial.   In my perfect world, these handlers and their dogs would start entering practice events a few WEEKS after starting beginning competition obedience classes, using these events as new places to practice heeling with distractions, stays and comes while still using lots of food, toys and play.   The more experience the dog and handler have in these environments, the better equipped they are to excel when it comes time to entering the real thing.   

Practice events provide distractions that simply cannot be simulated in class or training situations, and their value cannot be overstated.   When experienced competitors are asked to offer advice to newcomers, they consistently talk about fun matches, run-throughs, Ten-Minute Tickers and other practice events, and how they wish they had started doing them earlier.

Many beginners think there is a minimum requirement or proficiency needed prior to entering practice events.  That is simply not true!   Proficiency comes through the experience gained at practice events!

The wonderful thing about obedience is that competition is individual.  You and your dog compete only against yourselves and that elusive perfect score of 200 points.  Each trainer sets his own goals, based on his experience, his capabilities, the amount of time he has available for training and other factors.  For many, earning a title regardless of the score is quite thrilling.  For others, a score of less than 197 might be disappointing.   Most people fall somewhere in the middle of those two extremes.  Handlers with multiple dogs will have different goals for each dog, based on the mental and physical capabilities of each.

Plan on spending more time training your dog away from home, with groups of friends and at practice events if you want to earn your obedience titles easily and with higher scores.  

Socialization & Orientation – Level 1

Think of the first few practice events that you attend as an introduction.  Go to socialize your dog and orient yourself to the way these events are run.   Take as much of your “show stuff” as you want and plan to stay for an hour or so, with a pocket full of treats, some poop bags and a relaxed attitude.  

When you first arrive, walk your dog around the perimeter of the rings and activity.   This will allow him to see the other dogs and people, without being overwhelmed.  Make sure he relieves himself away from the rings (this sets his routine for the real thing; you don’t want a dog who potties in the ring at an outdoor show!) and play with him a little to burn off some energy.   After a few minutes, wander closer to ringside and notice your dog’s demeanor.  How does he seem to be taking all of this new stuff?   First impressions are important for dogs, as well as humans, so make it as positive for your dog as possible.  

You’re certain to see someone else from your training center; feel free to ask for suggestions.   If people come up asking to pet your dog, practice the sit for greeting exercise – don’t let your dog get in the habit of jumping all over everyone he sees.    After a sit for greeting, then you can release your dog to visit the person and/or their puppy (if it seems friendly and appropriate).

After you’ve been around the rings for several minutes, see if you can get your dog to focus on you by quietly saying his name and offering a treat.    If he gives attention, try to prolong it before releasing him.   If he’s too distracted to pay attention, go further away from the activity and try again.    

After you’ve had your dog out and about for 30 minutes or so, put him in his crate for a little break.   This is another aspect of establishing a show routine.   Sit in your lawn chair next to his crate and relax for a while.   Or, if it’s not too hot, put him in his crate in the car for a little while while you return to ringside.

After 20 or 30 minutes, get your dog out and try everything again:  walking the perimeter, going potty, sit for greetings and finally paying attention.    Until your dog can pay attention to you when you say his name and offer him food, you won’t be ready to do any actual training at a fun match or other event.   The more distracted your dog, the more socializing and orienting you’ll need to do.   

Your goal in Level 1 is to introduce you and your dog to a mini version of a dog show and begin a show routine which includes pottying on leash, sitting for greeting, paying attention and spending time in a crate.   How long you stay at this level depends on your dog’s age, temperament, natural attentiveness, social ability and ability to focus when asked.

Practicing Outside the Ring – Level 2

Some dogs can actually progress to Level 2 at their first or second outing.  

Begin as you did in Level 1, with a walk around the perimeter and the opportunity to relieve himself, followed by a sit for greeting and then attention.   If your dog can focus for food, then ask him to heel while nibbling on food (100% food reinforcement) – even if you’re past that point in your training at home or in class.   Remember, this is a totally new situation, so keep it short and positive.   Use your proximity to the rings as your controllable distractions.   The better your dog is doing, the closer you can move to the distractions.   The more difficulty your dog is having, the further away you should go.

Work on heeling for a few minutes and then try a sit or down stay on leash, allowing your dog the freedom to look around as long as he doesn’t sniff or change position.   Again, lower your expectations with these new distractions and help (rather than correct) your dog when he makes mistakes.    Alternate training your dog with walking him around the perimeter or spending time in his crate or playing with him.   

As your dog succeeds with simple exercises outside the ring, try adding more complicated ones.  

Your goal in Level 2 is to gradually require the dog to “work” outside the ring at practice events and to become more comfortable in these surroundings.   (The same can be said for you!)   How long you stay at this level depends on you and your dog!

Practicing Inside the Ring with Lots of Props – Level 3

You’re ready to register and actually enter the ring!   I recommend you sign up for two Novice “go’s”, about 30 minutes apart.   (Even though Novice includes heeling OFF leash, you don’t have to.   You can just tell the judge you want to keep your leash for that exercise.   Remember, you paid your money, so politely do what you need to do for your dog!)

Be sure to arrive early enough to get settled before you actually need to be in the ring.   If you haven’t reserved an actual time slot in advance, be patient because some fun matches can last a long time.   It might be an hour or more before you get your turn in the ring.    Don’t look at this as a negative!   Waiting around is actually part of going to real dog shows, so relax and go with the flow!    While you’re waiting, walk your dog around the ring, ask him to focus, practice outside the ring and let him rest in his crate – same as you did in Level 2.

Plan your strategy for your first go:  

How much time do you need to warm your dog up before you go in the ring?  If your dog is low energy, don’t get him out of his crate too early.  If your dog is high energy, get him out early enough to take the edge off.   

What are your goals for your first time in the ring?   Good first-time goals are not falling down and remembering your dog’s name!

How easily distracted is your dog?  How much food will you need to use for heeling?   As you gain experience in the ring, training your dog at the appropriate level will be much easier.   Remember, practice events are TRAINING events!   Do what your dog needs, not what your fellow exhibitors do!

What training aids do you want to take into the ring?    In the beginning you’ll want your dog, your leash and your food.   A training collar and long line might also come in handy, depending on your dog. 

Where is your dog on each exercise?   What level of training are you at?    A young puppy who’s only been training for a few weeks can do all the heeling exercises if you feed him the entire time and you don’t expect fancy turns or sits.   A young puppy’s version of a stand for exam might be a “stand while your mom holds you and the judge feeds you” or a sit for greeting.   And a recall might be “go get the cookie and come through my legs.”   Sit and down stays can be as close and short as they need to be.

If possible have someone videotape you in the ring so you can watch it later.   After your turn is over, return your dog to his crate, sit in your chair and jot down some notes about how things went.   Then, plan your next go!

For the dog who can do a little of everything, but nothing in finished form

It’s okay – and even desirable – to do some of the different exercises that your dog knows outside and inside the ring.   A dog who can do a little retrieving and a little jumping, plus a few drops, can actually enter Open at a practice event.   Just keep the jumps low, your long line on and work each exercise at your dog’s level.  Remember, it’s the training that you do around these distractions that improve your dog’s understanding of each exercise.   Don’t wait until your dog is “perfect” to enter the ring!

Your goal for Level 3 is to become a thinking handler!   Become more proactive and less reactive.  Take charge of the ring and accomplish what you set out to do.  Plan each go beforehand and critique each go afterwards.  Make notes for improvement and pat yourself – and your dog – on the back when appropriate.  Gain confidence!    Plan to stay at this level for many months as you add more retrieving, jumping and signal exercises.

Practicing Inside the Ring with Fewer Props & More Formality – Level 4

Level 4 is really a continuation of Level 3.   The differences are in the slow reduction of food, props and training aids, and the slow increase in formality of each exercise, until one day you’re at the point where you suddenly realize your dog is actually “doing it!”   You are comfortable in the ring, you know what comes next and your dog is performing without constant reinforcement.

Exhibiting AS IF it were the real thing! – Level 5

This is the evaluation level.   You and your dog act AS IF you were at a real dog show, entered under a real judge who’s scoring your performance.   You wear your fancy show clothes.   You tell everyone what you’re doing.   You invite friends and/or family to watch your performance.   You get into show mode and go through your show routine.   Everything is the same as before, except this time you’ll take no food or other training aids into the ring.  You’ll give no extra commands or corrections.   You’ll treat it like a real show and see what happens.

The best place to do this evaluation is at a Sanctioned Match, where things are usual more formal and serious, but you can achieve similar results at a multi-ring fun match or run-through.    Keep in mind that YOU are your best judge of your performance.   Because your judge may or may not be as experienced or knowledgeable as a “real” judge, your score sheet may or may not reflect your actual performance

Most handlers use Level 5 to test their dog’s progress under simulated ring conditions and then return to practicing at Level 4, using practice events to fix problems that have cropped up or redefine the parameters of an exercise to the dog.    Practicing at Level 5 more than occasionally is not recommended; dogs do get “ring-wise!”

Entering Your First Real Obedience Trial

Show Conditions:  Home Turf or Travel?  Indoors or Outside?  Big, All-Breed Show or Little Specialty?

A couple of months before you start your big adventure, consider the following:

1.       Do you want to travel, and if so how far?   Traveling to shows is lots of fun, but more exhausting for dogs and handlers.   Make sure you and your dog can handle the extra effort that traveling takes.

2.       Do you want to show your dog indoors or outside?   Does your dog work better inside or better outside?   How do you and your dog handle outdoor conditions like rain, cold, heat and wind?  (Dog shows are rarely cancelled due to bad weather!)   How well can you heel on lumpy grass?  How distracted does your dog get inside a noisy building?   These are all factors to consider when choosing dog shows.

3.       Take the time to sit down with a show calendar (and possibly your instructor or more experienced handler) and look at your options over the next several months.   Some handlers like to wait until a certain time of the year to begin their Novice career so they can show in cooler weather (or indoors, or whatever).   Do you want to show every weekend or every other weekend or just occasionally?   How many times do you want to show your dog in Novice before moving into Open?   Is there a Specialty for your breed that you’d like to attend?   Show circuits are often fun because there are several shows in a row at the same location, which can help dog and handler feel more comfortable as the weekend progresses.

4.       Are you easily flustered?   Can you handle a judge who’s gruff?   Is your dog comfortable with judges who wear hats or long, flowing coats?   Does your dog have more difficulty with men or women judges on the stand for exam?   Your answers to these questions may influence your decision to enter a certain show.   Newcomers, in particular, should ask instructors or experienced folks for a little background on various judges.

5.       Will your family be attending the show?  This is often a tricky issue, because family members often want to join you and cheer for you outside the ring.   Unless your family joins you for training sessions and practice events, their attendance at the real thing might distract the dog, depending on how attached the dog is to the rest of the family.   Many families have had their feelings hurt when they realized how much of a distraction they were and how their presence effected the dog’s performance.

6.       Do your goals include Dog World Awards or points toward national ranking systems or qualifying scores for regional or national competitions?   If so, you’ll want additional guidance from your instructor or mentor.

Completing the Entry Form

Be sure your entry is completed accurately and fully.   The show superintendent and registry are not responsible for errors that you make.  Seemingly little mistakes like transposing two numbers in your dog’s registration number, or the wrong birthdate, can make your entry invalid.   Entries determined to be invalid result in the cancellation of awards, titles, legs, etc.   Double-check your entry and be sure to sign it.   Enclose the proper fees and mail or fax your entry in plenty of time to be received.    (See sample entry form at the end of this article.)   Keep in mind that entries cannot be refunded after closing date/time, should you change your mind!

Confirmation & Judging Schedule

About a week prior to the show you’ll receive your entry confirmation and judging schedule (see sample at the end of this article).   Review your confirmation to make sure it’s correct, and take it to the show with you.   See where your armband number falls in the judging schedule.  You can estimate an approximate time you can expect to be the in the ring, based on these calculations:   8 minutes/dog for Novice; 10 minutes/dog for Open; 12 minutes/dog for Utility.   These estimates do not include dogs taken out of catalog order or absentees.

The Week Before the Show

Relax!   Try to do your heaviest training early in the week and give your dog a day or two off just before the show.  (You might have been successful at cramming for finals in school, but last-minute cramming creates too much stress in the obedience realm.)

You’re at the Show!   Now what?

Success is a Journey, Not a Destination!

Attending all those practice events is now going to pay off!   You know how early you need to arrive to set up your crate, get coffee, potty your dog and have time to relax.   Your dog is also comfortable with the routine, but a few butterflies are normal.   Do your visualizations and deep breathing.  You’ll do great!    If you want to purchase a Show Catalog (cost is between $3 and $10, depending upon the size and number of shows included), look for the catalog table which is usually located near the superintendent’s table.

Parking

Most shows charge for parking, usually $3 or $4 per vehicle per day.   If you plan to bring an RV, plan to pay additional for parking.  Overnight parking on the show grounds is almost always available, but check the premium list for details.   Advance reservations are usually required.

Unloading & the Crate Dolly

Shows often have an area for unloading, closer to the rings than general parking.   If you choose to unload, you’ll need to move your vehicle as soon as possible to allow others the opportunity to do the same.   Most exhibitors purchase a crate dolly from one of the show vendors to make the trek from car to ring easier.   Crate dollies and bungee cords are lifesavers for those of us with large and/or multiple dogs.    Crate dollies cost between $70 - $90.

At Ringside

Be sure to check in at your ring and pick up your armband number and a rubber band, or two.   (Hint:  It’s a good idea to bring your own rubber bands that fit your arm comfortably.  When it comes to dog show rubber bands, one size definitely does NOT fit all!   Or, you might want to invest in an arm band holder, available at most dog show vendors.)      Once you pick-up your armband, you are obligated to show your dog – in both the individual exercises and the group exercises.   If something unexpected happens (you get sick, your dog gets sick, etc.), and you need to withdraw from competing, be sure to speak with the judge and let them know what’s happened.  

At AKC events, you pick up your armband and check in at your ring.   At UKC and CKC events, you pick up your armband at the superintendent’s table, and then check in at your ring.

When you check in at your ring, the steward will be able to give you a GENERAL idea of how slowly or quickly judging is progressing, but remember things can change, so check back often.   Some trials have display boards where the stewards write the number of the dogs that are next in the ring, which makes it easier to keep track.   Sometimes your estimated time in the ring changes because the judge takes a lunch break, or he’s waiting for an exhibitor who has a conflict in another ring.

Speaking of conflicts!   Obedience judges are usually willing to accommodate exhibitors with conflicts caused by showing more than one dog in obedience and/or showing the same dog in conformation at the same show.    (Conformation judges will never wait for an exhibitor, however.)    If it looks like you’re going to have a conflict, be sure to talk to your judge BEFORE HE STARTS JUDGING THE CLASS.    If you have an emergency en route to the show (flat tire, out of gas, etc.) that causes you to arrive after your armband number has been called, you can also speak to the judge and see if you can be accommodated.

Warming Up & Entering the Ring

Your match experience has taught you how to warm up your dog.  Most beginners err on the side of warming their dogs up too much, with the result being an exhausted dog.   You may use food and/or toys as part of your warm-up, provided you don’t use them in a distracting manner or too close to the ring.    Do not leave your toy or food on the judge’s table when you go in the ring; leave it on a chair or with a friend or on your crate.

When the dog just before you goes into the ring, let the steward know you’re ready and where you’ll be waiting.   The steward may ask you to stand by right outside the ring, but that’s not necessary and not the best way to warm your dog up for your turn.   Just let the steward know you’ll be there when needed.

If you are the first dog in the ring, ask the judge (before he begins judging) to show you the heeling pattern.  (Most judges offer to do so.)   If you’re not first in the ring, be sure to watch the judge’s patterns so you’ll be comfortable with the flow once you get into the ring.    If you have access to a video camera, get that ready and have someone prepared to videotape your performance.

In the Novice Ring

From the moment the steward brings you into the ring, and asks you to set up in a certain spot, you are being judged.   There are things you can and cannot do to your dog at various times during the judging.   Read the regulations for the exact wording and instructions.   What follows is an overview of important reminders.

(Refer to current Obedience Regulations and accompanying articles by Kathy Lang.)

Updated 8/4/00 by KJL

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